{"id":2247,"date":"2014-08-28T19:28:31","date_gmt":"2014-08-28T19:28:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/?p=2247"},"modified":"2014-08-29T19:30:24","modified_gmt":"2014-08-29T19:30:24","slug":"undone-glamour-imperfect-makeup","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/?p=2247","title":{"rendered":"Undone glamour : imperfect makeup"},"content":{"rendered":"

I am into a natural look when it comes to wearing make up , even though in the evening I do like a groomed and slick “perfect ” look .<\/span><\/p>\n

I already wrote a couple of posts supporting a return to a more natural or invisible look , both in fashion and beauty . One post was called<\/span> The Invisible Woman<\/span><\/a>\u00a0<\/span><\/strong>and the other was about neutral or uniform dressing or<\/span> Men’s Stuff<\/span><\/a><\/strong>. \u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Therefore I was very interested by this article<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong> in the weekend’s New York Times T Magazine ,where editor Sarah Nicole Prickett talks about the feel of the new hair and make up trends for this coming fall . “Undone” beauty is in the air , “imperfect” is the new perfect. When you google the words “undone make up” \u00a0there is for example a link<\/span><\/a> <\/strong><\/span>to Nordstrom’s selection of beauty products that will help you achieve that new “undone ” look , and their choices are many. All this to say that it already feels like the trend is here to stay. \u00a0By what I also understand this new undone look now transcends the natural and goes at times \u00a0into more creative and free-spirited realms with a somewhat D.I.Y \u00a0vibe to it.<\/span><\/p>\n

The imperfect or undone look was created this spring by certain hair and make up artists to contrast against the super-rich clothes shown on the autumn\/winter 2014 runways of fashion houses such as Celine, Lanvin, Prada, Anthony Vacarello , Altuzarra . This new look off-sets the luxurious feel on the runways by giving the models an air of nonchalance when making them look deliberately disheveled. \u00a0The hair looked wet like you just walked out of the shower and used your fingers to pull it back and some of the girls at Louis Vuitton had messy unbrushed hair with dark roots and their makeup felt unfinished . Squiggly eye liner and clumpy mascara completed some of these looks.<\/span><\/p>\n

So basically this new makeup and hair should feel a bit raw and undone and neither classic nor perfectly polished : off colors, dusty palettes, dirty hues, sludgy tones ….teal-blues, slates, asphalts and metallic browns abound.<\/span><\/p>\n

Makeup artist Pat McGrath fleshed out the story line a bit more:\u00a0\u201cWe were obsessed with the contrast of rich and poor,\u201d she said, stressing the word \u201cundone\u201d when describing the beautiful burgundy-stained mouths she was drawing in darker toward the center of models\u2019 lips and then diffusing outward with a clear balm. \u201cIt\u2019s the shadow of formerly amazing makeup,\u201d<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

to quote T Magazine :\u00a0\u201cUndone\u201d is the enemy of \u201cnot done,\u201d which is also known as the au courant \u201cno-makeup look.\u201d<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

And, as it turns out, an accidental example of a trend. Those also prone to putting on makeup in taxis, on subways and\/or on one too many Ativans, will be pleasantly bemused to know that \u201cimperfect beauty,\u201d as it\u2019s called in fashion circles, is a bona fide thing, as shown on the fall runways. At Lanvin\u2019s fall 2014 show, Pat McGrath dabbed inky shadow, markerlike, above the lashline, while at Anthony Vaccarello, Tom Pecheux used dental floss to apply red and black squiggles that barely, just barely, resembled eyeliner. Mascara was caked on at Prada, buried in glitter at Altuzarra and left off altogether at C\u00e9line, where wet hair and taupe-ringed eyes evoked a fortnight-long bender just ended. In the usual close-ups of models\u2019 faces taken backstage, the hand of the makeup artist was almost disconcertingly visible. You could see fingerprints on eyelids, even mouths. Again at C\u00e9line, nails were not only polish-free but uneven, certainly unmanicured. (Of course, youth permits all manner of beauty sins. If you\u2019re not a 19-year-old model, you should try one \u201cmistake\u201d at a time. Rihanna got away with going to the 2013 American Music Awards with obvious tan lines and doobie-wrapped hair not only because she\u2019s Rihanna, but because her makeup, nails and diamonds were neo-Hollywood flawless.)<\/em><\/p>\n

Maybe the \u201cundone\u201d or \u201chand-done\u201d trend is a way of saying \u201cno thank you\u201d to airbrushing in Photoshop, just as the recent vogue for rough ceramics and crafty abstraction in the art world is in part a rejoinder to artists like Jeff Koons who reproduce, en masse, the mass-produced. Or maybe it\u2019s a simple acknowledgment that we\u2019re most of us too busy to bother with the 26 precision tools a no-makeup look requires, and not hydrated, well-slept or content enough for a no-makeup reality.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

Either way, where I used to begin each day with a canvaslike mask of foundation, I now apply an uneven layer of tinted moisturizer. And sometimes I leave the permanent, bluish half-moons under my eyes untouched. I like to think this is my own interpretation of the novelist Junichiro Tanizaki\u2019s \u201cIn Praise of Shadows,\u201d an essay that discussed the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi that the design writer Leonard Koren later defined as beauty \u201ccoaxed out of ugliness.\u201d And once in a while I feel emboldened to color outside the lines. I want to leave in more mistakes, to leave an impression more provocative than good. A face made up in a rush is also done for the rush of making it up, and for the childlike pleasure of showing that you\u2019ve made it. As the American painter Cy Twombly said to the critic David Sylvester, \u201cPaint in a sense is a certain infantile thing . . . I start out using a brush, but then I can\u2019t take the time because the idea doesn\u2019t correspond, it gets stuck when the brush goes out of paint . . . So I take my hand and I do it.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

I like it ! \u00a0will try it !<\/p>\n

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the looks above are from the A\/W 2014 collections : Prada, Lanvin, Celine,Marni , Victor & Rolf, Louis Vuitton.<\/p>\n

Photos curtesy of Style.com and The New York Times T Magazine.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I am into a natural look when it comes to wearing make up , even though in the evening I do like a groomed and slick “perfect ” look . I already wrote a couple of posts supporting a return to a more natural or invisible look , both in fashion and beauty . One […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2254,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[68,5,4,43],"tags":[819,820,818,817,816],"class_list":["post-2247","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","category-health-beauty","category-inspiration","category-things-that-work-for-me","tag-imperfect-beauty","tag-imperfect-make-up","tag-the-undone-face","tag-undone-glamour","tag-undone-make-up"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/Screen-Shot-2014-08-28-at-11.42.50-AM.png","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3BVEi-Af","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2247","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2247"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2247\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2267,"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2247\/revisions\/2267"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2254"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2247"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2247"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/fashionsphinx.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2247"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}